Below are a few of the most common questions we are asked.
You will find further information
 on the fitting and floorcare pages

How do I work out how much flooring I need?
If you have a rectangular room with no alcoves etc it’s simple. Measure once along the shortest and longest walls with a metric measure and multiply them together. For an example of this and how to measure more awkward rooms go here.

Can I fit the flooring myself?
We really only advise fitting Laminate flooring yourself as this uses a click system to join together. Ideally we advise employing a professional fitter, especially when the flooring is Engineered wood (gluing required) or Solid wood (nailing required). For more info on fitting, go here.

What’s an expansion gap?
You need to leave space around the perimeter of the newly installed floor to allow for wood expansion. This can occur when the humidity of a room varies; if you fit the floor flush to an existing wall, the floor can ‘blow’ or lift upwards when there is no room to expand. We advise a minimum of 8-10mm on all sides - these gaps will be covered by skirting or beading.
(For more info on fitting always follow manufacturers instructions).

Do you provide a fitting service?
We do not provide a fitting service but we have a database of excellent self-employed fitters who we recommend regularly and who’s work we have personally vetted (and some of whom we have employed
 to install our own floors!)

Laminate, Real wood, Solid wood flooring - what’s the difference?
Laminate flooring is a HDF board with a photographic image laminated to the surface. Our flooring is fitted using a click system so no gluing or nailing is required. 

Real wood (or ‘Engineered Flooring’) is made up of three layers. A top layer of around 3-4mm of real wood placed on a cross-ply middle layer with a hardwood base. The planks are glued as a ‘floating floor’ and laid on an underlay. They are particularly good in areas with under-floor heating as they are more suitable to temperature change.

Solid wood flooring is made up of pure solid planks (made from a single piece of wood). Solid woods are fixed to the original sub-floor; to the joists or, in the case of concrete floors to a base of chipboard. The planks are secret-nailed along the tongue & groove, giving an invisible, strong bond. If laying Solid flooring in rooms prone to wide temperature changes the use of humidifiers/dehumidifiers is recommended.

How do I keep my flooring clean?
We sell a spray and mop suitable for Laminate flooring. Never use wax cleaners or abrasive polishes and avoid leaving liquids on it for any length of time.

For Real and Solid woods floors, we sell mops (to be used dry never wet). It is very important to keep your floor dust and grime free as it can act like sandpaper, wearing away a pre-finished surface. The maintenance of wood flooring is not complicated or hard work. There is no need to spend hours rubbing in and polishing off wax on your hands and knees! You can also take a look at our floorcare page for more information.

What accessories will I need?
Depending on what type of floor you are installing will depend on what product(s) you may need. If it’s Laminate accessories then please click here. For our more extensive range that includes accessories for real and solid wood. A few things you may need are Pipe Roses (to give a good finish around radiator pipes etc), beading (scotia), floor protectors, fitting kits.

What about underlay?
We stock a range of underlays but there is one basic rule; if you are laying directly onto a concrete floor, you must use a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) first to prevent moisture from the concrete attacking your flooring. For all other situations any of our other underlays are fine; from the basic polyfoam to our Duratex sound proofing underlay. Membrane) first to prevent moisture from the concrete attacking your flooring. For all other situations any of our other underlays are fine; from the basic polyfoam to our Duratex sound proofing underlay..

Are some woods harder than others?
Different species of wood have different hardness levels.
Please find listed below a guide to wood hardness levels
(measured according to Brinell).
The higher the number, the harder the species.

Please bear in mind the hardness of wood is related to how much denting will occur and not overall durability.        

I have a question that’s not covered here!

Please give us a call and we’ll do our best to help you.
Alternatively you can email us at sales@jordanwoodfloors.co.uk
and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.