FREQUENTLY ASKED
QUESTIONS

Below you will find some helpful answers to some of the common questions we are asked, if you don't see an answer to your question then please either call one of our braches or use our online enquiry form and one of our advisors will be glad to assist.

Most laminate flooring is unsuitable for areas of high moisture such as bathrooms, we stock some ranges such as Quickstep Lagune which are suitable for these areas.

When installing a wood floor, solid or engineered, on a concrete base the use of a damp proof membrane is always recommended. No matter how dry your floor feels it will always contain damp, which can be drawn to the wood if not treated causing cupping, lifting and general damage to the floor. For engineered flooring use a plastic membrane sheet exceeding 0.2mm. For solid floors a liquid dpm should be used.

Solid woods are not recommended for underfloor heating as the extra heat produced can result in  instability sometimes causing gaps in between boards, cracking and lifting. Some manufacturers will recommend that any solid wood less than 100mm wide will be suitable for underfloor heating as long as all manufacture instructions are followed. Only water piped heating is recommended. Acclimatise the wood flooring with the heating on, for at least two weeks. Ensure that when fitting that the flooring is fully secured to the sub floor either by gluing or secret nailing. Floorsave recommend the use of engineered flooring as these products are more suitable.

Allow at least 7 days for the wood to acclimatise before installing. Ensure that the Moisture content of the sub floor does not exceed 2.5%. Always use a recommended paint on damp proof membrane prior to installation i.e. F Ball’s F76 or EP21. The flooring must be entirely adhered to the sub floor using a recommended adhesive i.e. SLC SL11. Allow an expansion gap of at least 10mm around the perimeter of the room. Always follow manufacturers instructions when fitting your floor.

Each of our product pages features a guide the the grades appropriate to the type of flooring you are browsing, the bottom of each page has an picture example and an explanation of what you can expect from each particular grade. Details include things like are not acceptable, colour variation & if splits are acceptable.

All wood floors have colour variation; this is the natural colour change between the boards.

Pin knots are small closed knots usually smaller than a 10 pence piece.

Sap wood is a natural occurrence and usually shows up a lighter shade on the surface of the wood. In most cases this helps to add to the character of the floor.

On some grades of wood, usually lower grades, it is sometimes ideal to check the flooring prior to laying to ensure a balance mix of colour variation and knots over the whole area.

With all grades of wood there will be a percentage of flooring which cannot be used. Some may be due to cutting, others due to the grade. The lower the grade of the wood the higher the percentage should be allowed.

Acclimatising the wood is very important to allow the wood to get used to the temperature of your property as they come from storage which has a different temperature. Make sure boxes are closed when acclimatising.

When installing solid wood on concrete flooring please insure you use a correct Liquid Damp Proof Membrane and suitable glue.

Engineered flooring is suitable and some laminates please check before your purchase. Solid woods are strongly advised not to be used.

We recommend that the fitting guidelines supplied
in each box are followed.