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Below
are a few of the most common
questions
we are asked.
You will find further information
on the
fitting
and
floorcare
pages
How
do I work out how much flooring I need?
If you have a
rectangular room with no alcoves etc it’s simple. Measure once
along the shortest and longest walls with a metric measure and
multiply them together. For an example of this and how to
measure more awkward rooms go
here.
Can
I fit the flooring myself?
We really
only advise fitting Laminate flooring yourself as this uses a
click system to join together. Ideally we advise employing a
professional fitter, especially when the flooring is Engineered
wood (gluing required) or Solid wood (nailing required). For
more info on fitting, go
here.
What’s
an expansion gap?
You need to
leave space around the perimeter of the newly installed floor to
allow for wood expansion. This can occur when the humidity of a
room varies; if you fit the floor flush to an existing wall, the
floor can ‘blow’ or lift upwards when there is no room to
expand. We advise a minimum of
8-10mm
on all sides - these gaps will be covered by skirting or
beading.
(For more info on fitting always follow manufacturers
instructions).
Do
you provide a fitting service?
We do not
provide a fitting service but we have a database of
excellent
self-employed fitters who we recommend regularly and who’s
work we have personally vetted (and some of whom we have
employed
to install our own floors!)
Laminate,
Real wood, Solid wood flooring - what’s the difference?
Laminate
flooring is a HDF board with a photographic image laminated to
the surface. Our flooring is fitted using a click system so no
gluing or
nailing
is required.
Real
wood (or ‘Engineered Flooring’) is made up of three layers.
A
top layer of around 3-4mm of real wood placed on a cross-ply
middle layer with a hardwood base. The planks are glued as a
‘floating floor’ and laid on an underlay. They are
particularly good in areas with under-floor
heating as they are more suitable to temperature change.
Solid wood flooring is made up of pure solid planks (made from a
single piece of wood). Solid woods are fixed to the original
sub-floor; to the joists or, in the case of concrete floors to a
base of chipboard. The planks are secret-nailed along the tongue
& groove, giving an invisible, strong bond.
If
laying Solid flooring in rooms prone to wide temperature changes
the use of humidifiers/dehumidifiers is recommended.
How
do I keep my flooring clean?
We sell a
spray and mop suitable for Laminate flooring. Never use wax
cleaners or abrasive polishes and avoid leaving liquids on it
for any length of time.
For
Real and Solid woods floors, we sell mops (to be used dry never wet). It
is very important to keep your floor dust and grime free as it
can act like sandpaper, wearing away a pre-finished surface. The
maintenance of wood flooring is not complicated or hard work.
There is no need to spend hours rubbing in and polishing off wax
on your hands and knees! You can also take a look
at our floorcare
page for more information.
What
accessories will I need?
Depending on
what type of floor you are installing will depend on what
product(s) you may need. If it’s Laminate accessories then
please click
here. For
our more extensive range that includes accessories for real and
solid wood. A
few things you may need are Pipe Roses (to give a good finish
around radiator pipes etc), beading (scotia), floor protectors,
fitting kits.
What
about underlay?
We stock a
range of underlays but there is one basic rule; if you are laying
directly onto a concrete floor, you must use a DPM (Damp Proof
Membrane)
first to prevent moisture from the concrete attacking your
flooring. For all other situations any of our other underlays
are fine; from the basic polyfoam to our Duratex sound proofing
underlay.
Membrane)
first to prevent moisture from the concrete attacking your
flooring. For all other situations any of our other underlays
are fine; from the basic polyfoam to our Duratex sound proofing
underlay..
Are
some woods harder than others?
Different
species of wood have different hardness levels.
Please find listed below a guide to wood hardness levels
(measured according to Brinell).
The higher the number, the harder the species.
Please
bear in mind the hardness of wood is related to how much denting
will occur and not overall durability.
| BAMBOO |
6.1 |
WALNUT |
3.6 |
| KEMPAS |
5.6 |
BEECH |
3.0-3.3 |
| MERBAU |
4.9 |
DANUBE
OAK |
3.2 |
| RED
OAK |
3.5-4.5 |
EUROPEAN
CHERRY |
3.1 |
| OAK |
3.5-4.5 |
MAPLE |
2.9 |
| HEVEA |
4.3 |
CHERRY
BIRCH |
2.5 |
| ASH |
3.8 |
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I
have a question that’s not covered here!
Please give
us a call
and we’ll do our best to help you.
Alternatively you can email us at sales@jordanwoodfloors.co.uk
and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
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